A few new lessons

I find myself in Golinhac today. It has been a cold and rainy day all the way from Estaing. Yesterday in Espalion I wanted to buy some candy and the clerk suggested she could not make change so I thought I would buy some local chocolate too. Then she charged me more than double. I was angry and upset so I left town. Today Marie discovered a washer and drier after I assured her there were none, but by the time we got there our ungracious roommate for the night and one other person had taken advantage of the machines putting us an hour and a half out for clean clothing. This of course means no shower till the warm clothes are done drying. At least we will get machine washed clothes, the first since Sauges almost a week ago. We do hand washing as often as possible but as it is still may and cold at night it takes two days to dry many things. There have been few opportunities to get wireless access so far on this journey. Most of the places that have it are bigger than the gites that we have been in. Many cities run a hostel, which are no too bad really, but inNasbinal we had reservations at a gite communal, the city hostel, and the mayor gave us the boot in favor of a group she wanted more. She moved us, very rapidly and unexpectedly on our part, to her brothers' gite. It was an alright place and at least had heat. Tomorrow we go on to Conques. It is one of the most popular tourist places in France. Reservations have to be made at least a week in advance anywhere we go. People flock to the historic towns on the weekend. It is beautiful in the countryside. Yesterday a farmer ran his sheep down the road toward me to a new pasture. His dog shepherded them from behind. It was very fun to watch and the farmer clearly enjoyed his life. We are following the Lot river. Though following may not be the best term. Daily now we go up and down over the breaks of the river, through dense woodlands and open pastureland. We are not so high in elevation as when we walked through barren, wind blown highlands with boulder strewn fields. It continues to be beautiful country.I calculate that we are averaging 10.5 miles per day so far.